This reveal panel shows what’s behind wall paneling of a typical house. This particular section has been cut into, and insulation and sheathing removed, in the course of removing a bee colony. This particular wall was infested over two years with wild bees. After the colony was removed the first time, the weep holes that allowed the bees access to the wall were not plugged, and despite removing the original nest, bees located the old site and re-infested it.
If you look carefully at the brick you will see traces of old honeycomb left after the hive had been removed a second time from the wall. Control of bee nests like this usually must be done from the inside. In this case the interior wall paneling (sheet rock) wall had to be cut, the fiberglass insulation removed, and the outer wall sheathing cut to reach the hive. In this case the bees were entirely between the outer sheathing and the brick veneer.
Bee removal takes experience and the right tools. Care must always be taken not to cut electrical lines or plumbing. Also, the nest must be removed completely. Any wax, honey or dead bees left in the wall after extermination can become a source of odor and/or an ongoing insect infestation.
The amount and type of layers on the outside of the 2 by 4 studs of an exterior wall can vary depending on when and where the house was built. Some exterior wall may have a vapor barrier and veneer only. Others may have one or two insulation panels, a vapor barrier and wood, vinyl, brick or stucco exterior veneer. In this wall, note the extra layer of plywood installed as reinforcement of the corner of the structure. This is a common way to increase the strength of a home, and may be a building code requirement in earthquake- or storm-prone areas.
As you can see from this exhibit, a carpenter may be needed after your bee removal job to repair holes made in the interior wall external insulation and sheathing. Make sure that any reentry points to the wall are sealed with (breathable) barrier to keep bees from coming back.